What Should a Honda 650 Alternator Read

79-82 Honda cb650 charging problems

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Jesus Fucking Christ. My rotor shit out again yesterday.
Where exercise I start? This is going to be a long mail.

So, the 79-82 Honda cb650 has a shitty charging arrangement.
I realized I've never made a post explaining in detail. Then, here it goes…

Permit me back upward a step… In the earlier 70's, Honda'southward had a solid magnetic rotor and the housing was filled with oil. This was good. Honda's rarely e'er had charging problems… and if they did… it was considering the regulator rectifier went bad, which was easy and cheap to supplant.

In 1979, Honda tried a different blazon of charging organization for iv years. They went with a rotor which was wound up with wires inside of it, and the housing was not filled with oil. Shit would get hot. Real fuckin hot. Long story short… the rotor would oftentimes shit out. My rotor shits out near once a year.

Flick below. Left to right.
new rotor, new regulator rectifier, new stator
These are the 3 components in the charging organisation.

This is the way the used parts all sit on the bike. (I already took the rotor locknut off)

Where it all plugs in under the seat.

Ok… this is where it gets tricky.

The chief matter that will go wrong with the charging system is the rotor.
At that place are 2 dissimilar means that the rotor will shit out:

i)
The wire on the rotor volition physically snap as seen in the pic below. Once the wire snaps, no more charging at all… cypher. It will instantly start draining the bombardment. You're not going to make information technology abode. Battery will shit out in about 10-20 mins. Possibly less.

Or…

2)
The wires will visually appear fine, but the reading will be style higher up the spec iv-6, as seen below. Apparently that means there is an "open" in the circuit. Not sure what that means. Anyway… if this is the example and at that place's an "open", the charging organization will nonetheless kinda work, but it will be erratic. It won't directly start draining the battery… at to the lowest degree not right abroad. It will range from 9 > 12 > 7 > 10…. go what I mean… it will be erratic, rather than holding at the 13.v – 14 like it should be. And then… if this happens, you have a good take a chance of at to the lowest degree making it dwelling house before the bicycle shits out completely.

Bank check out what the Haynes manual has to say about it all.

Getting the rotor off can be a pain in the ass. You need a "gear puller". Pep boys has them. Make sure yous back the lock nut out one/4″ before trying to use the rotor puller.

Once you supercede the rotor, stator and regulator rectifier, shit should exist adept again. xiii.v at idle and around xiv at 4K rpm.

Ok, then… you know how to replace the 3 items in the charging system.

Let me go into item about other contributing things about why this charging system sucks balls.

I've come to the decision that heat is one of the master thing that breaks down the rotor. The stock header sits directly next to the stator cover, so I swapped out to a Mac 4-one. This eliminates extra rut on that side. I also installed an oil cooler to keep the engine a tiny bit libation.

There are other factors that could make the rotor shit out. Not sure if i'm going to say this correct, but if you have something in your wiring which is pulling extra amps, or the circuit isn't flowing right, this could crusade more strain on the charging system. So, basically, just make certain your wiring is the way it should be and your fuses are all good.

So, regarding my situation…
I've never had the charging organization last longer than a year. I've done literally everything I can think of to prevent or offset the rotor shitting out:
– Every piece in charging system is brand new
– Different header/exhaust
– Oil libation
– Rebuilt my unabridged wiring harness (check that out here)
– Double checked every connection numerous times

And the rotor even so shits out on me. The aftermarket rotors take a thicker gauge wire to forestall it from shitting out, and over time… it still shits out.

I've researched this trouble for the past 3 years, and at that place seems to be no real solution other than always keeping a backup aftermarket brand rotor and regulator rectifier on hand, so when your stuff shits out, yous take a back-up prepare.

One other matter to notation is the stator rarely ever goes bad. Every time my rotor shits out,… it takes out the regulator rectifier with information technology, just the stator remains good. Just… if y'all're replacing all this stuff for the first time. Def brand sure you replace all iii just for a peace of mind.

Resources to buy the new parts:
– ElectroSport.com
– RegulatorRectifier.com
– ebay
– Dime City Cycles – for lower watt bulb

Good luck. This is the only flaw of this cycle. Unfortunately, information technology's a large flaw.

Update – March 2013

I've been running all the new charging components as outlined above… with a lower wattage headlight bulb from dime city cycles, and shit has been good for over a year now. No problems. Also… I take a custom switch to go along my headlight off during the day. So… effort the lower wattage seedling, but keep information technology off when you can. It seems to aid in conjunction with all the new charging components… and oil libation, and streamlined wiring.

Random
Blast
From Past

Published - Sep 17, 2012

Philly to Canada – day iii

Woke up on the farm in New York and collected fresh eggs from the craven coop to brand the best breakfast. We decided to head up along lake George towards Burlington. A missed turn along the way put us on some of the all-time roads yet all through pine forests with no other cars on […]

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Source: http://www.chinonthetank.com/2011/08/79-82-honda-cb650-charging-problems/

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